Independents

It has been an interesting month and without realising it I have been following a variety of independents in the restaurant sector.

On the fascinating, challenging journey of helping to open a new restaurant, I have immersed myself in the entire experience.

From design, to service, to offer, it differs everywhere when you have truly independent thinkers creating places for people to come together. One great example of this is from Will Guidara of Eleven Madison Park, co-founder of The Welcome Conference and co-owner of two great NYC restaurants. Here's his take on recruitment.

I was fortunate to attend a Four Pillars Gin tasting hosted by Stuart Gregor and Cameron Mackenzie who have their three-year-old distillery in the Yarra Valley. It’s a great story and one that shows what passion and ingenuity can do.

I arrived at a fascinating location on the edge of the square mile, Future Laboratory, entering through the low stable door into a courtyard filled with herbs, botanicals and plants.

The 20 of us, a mix of small industry and big brand players sat in ,the classroom and enjoyed the story of how Cameron created the three gins we were about to taste. Stuart is a natural and voluble presenter and his passion overwhelmed even the most hardened listeners.

Tasting gin is almost the same as tasting wine, room temperature, inhale, sip, swirl but don’t spit out. We tried each of their four gins, the Rare Dry, Navy Strength (and at 58.8 proof it was damn strong), the barrel aged and the spiced negroni. All individual and special but not as unique as the last one, a surprise opportunity to taste the Bloody Shiraz Gin. Yes, it looks like shiraz, is made from shiraz grapes and bizarrely, it tastes like a wine-infused gin. This was something I would have to be pretty sloshed to consider, but it worked!

I have only been a gin fan for a relatively short time, I used to enjoy a gin and coke (don’t judge!) when I was a teenager but for the last 20 years I had stuck to vodka martinis. Then a friendship with Matthew Gilpin helped me assimilate back to the old spirit.

On a hot summer's day, I was walking through Soho an hour early for an appointment, crisscrossing the little streets with no destination in mind. I arrived at Suvlaki.

This tiny restaurant on Bateman Street that had been introduced to me by Afroditi Krassa, the architect who helped redesign the space. It seats 20 and you are as close to the chef as you’ll ever be. They have been incredibly resourceful with their limited space, including a clever and attractive high-top table option outside.

I needed to sit though, right in front of the kitchen and on top of the waiter’s station. I enjoyed their trio of small wraps, all their ingredients are from named producers either here or in Greece. A Fix pilsner served in the restaurant's own ice-cold copper mug

and finished with a Greek coffee. I was sated. In and out in 30 minutes. Value for money with warm attentive service. Efharisto!

For lunch the next week, I found myself pondering where to take a vegetarian former colleague. As an avid FT weekend reader I have enjoyed reading and cooking the recipes from Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer. Honey & Co is another tiny (30 seats) place off Goodge street. I walked in at 1230 on a Monday lunch time and bagged the last 2 spots at the dining counter overlooking the quiet west end of Warren Street.

My guest was running late, which wasn’t a problem as I had olives, feta and a wonderful glass of Mantlerhof Gruner Veltliner to while away the time. Once she arrived we dove into the menu.

Falafel, a baked aubergine (the like of which I’ve never tasted) finished off with a white peach and feta salad that was made magical thanks to its rose petal dressing. Light, packed full of flavour and delivered by amazingly friendly service. We were blessed by a quick hello from Itamar and set off into the humid afternoon, full but happy and overwhelmed by the experience. They have just opened a deli up the road that looks incredible. Next time!

A day trip up to Manchester last week reaffirmed the independent theme. A young entrepreneur who has soaked himself in the best to be found in London and brought a new vision to this great city. After a frustrating hour trying to find a needle and thread and then repairing my jacket button, I arrived at Spinningfields to find the new, improved Neighbourhood, somewhere I last visited 4 years ago. It is an independent gem in a sea of branded restaurants.

I once again encountered genuine warm and interested service complementing some really good food. There’s a drive in the North, to prove that it’s not all about London, and it really isn’t.

Those of us lucky enough to have worked in different places understand all that a capital city brings; the talent, ingenuity, inspiration and great people. Well, these are found elsewhere, just not in the same concentration as London or New York.

I ended the month with a return visit to Peckham Manor, to sample Ronnie Murray’s fish supper. Loving fish but only cooking what I know, I knew I'd be intrigued with what Ronnie was going to come up with. To experience a creative spirit allowed to run free, unencumbered by rules or dictats is so invigorating.

Ronnie uses as much from his garden as possible. It’s an inspiration to anyone with a small patch of ground who doesn’t want a lawn. He also has a smoker out there, as well as understanding neighbours! Easy to understand if you receive regular deliveries of his own smoked salmon!

We enjoyed a jellied tomato soup with crab, an incredible smoked Pollack tartare with horseradish and a super haddock and crayfish burger.

To finish we had a true inspiration; Loganberry Bakewell with avocado ice cream (yes it really works) and my new ultimate ingredient, seaweed crack…. Ok its seaweed crackle but boy was it addictive! I could have taken on each of the 14 plates to be honest.

Independence. Such a wonderful thing. Such a challenge but so worthwhile.