Holy Trinity

Recent times have found me diving into three new London restaurant openings. This is most unlike me as I like to give restaurateurs time to bed in. Although I have never really enjoyed the experience, this is only based on my experience of openings and the pressure that brings. This week reminded me that a friendly face of a fellow professional can bring relief not pressure, I hope the three places I am about to describe feel the same way.

I met David Carter a few years ago, when he was still at Roka, through a very dear friend. I then followed his progress from afar with Smokestak which came to define London street food over the past years, and his contribution to Street Feast helped make it what is today.

During his 10,000 hours David was mastering his food craft, finally able to open his own restaurant, which he did six weeks ago.

From first minute to last, the hospitality and sheer class shown was masterful. There is a true sense of identity in the space and you can feel David’s influence over everything. As with all new openings’ there is a list of snagging issues and areas that only become apparent once you open. Whether it is lighting or air conditioning, the team you have in place or the neighbours, as much as you can plan, the reality is certain things become apparent once you fire the place up and then fill it up.

David and his excellent team are going through some of the above, but doing it with great thought and patience. As a customer, all you feel is a slick operation that delivers a unique experience.

I haven’t been to Shoreditch for a little over six months and a chilly December Thursday was a perfect time to come rolling in on the ‘boris bike/sadiq cycle’. My phone died as I dismounted and thanks to the very kind delivery driver from patty&bun – “I can google-map it for you, bro” - I found my way eventually. The area feels so much like the Lower East Side in NYC, raw, industrial, edgy and full of promise. There are some big established names there already, from Beach, Blanket, Babylon and Dirty Bones to Byron and Busaba. Smokestak sits just behind these on the wonderfully raw Sclater Street that runs into Brick Lane, 50 yards to the east.

I look forward to coming back in spring, when the big windows will be open to the pavement and the good and the great of east London will be enjoying David’s smoked brisket and pigs’ tails in the fresh air, washed down with a bourbon-based cocktail.

Back into Soho and I finally got to meet Laura and Paul, who have just opened El Corazón. A taqueria on Poland Street that transported me back to Mexico City 22 years ago. I had gone for a weekend to celebrate my birthday and although short, it was very sweet and the smells, sights and sounds stayed with me, locked away in a recess of the mind, finally freed as I stepped into this gem of a restaurant.

Laura and my paths kept in parallel for the past few years. We knew the same people and, until last week it had been a case of sliding doors. After spending time at Riding House Café for both of them and opening Fischer’s for her, they embarked on their dream of a taqueria in London. In order to nail the experience, they spent time in Mexico and the States, understanding the cuisine but also soaking the atmosphere up, to the point they have been able to display it in a Soho side street to such great effect.

Paul spent time with Jonathan Waxman and Elliot Ketley, both friends and former colleagues of mine, who helped introduce him around the USA. I realise I need a road trip like that at some point in my life, planning begins now!

A lunch and dinner spent ordering too much and enjoying everything, especially the hospitality and brilliant, smiling team, has made this an instant hit for me.

Just around the corner in a dark and wonderfully warm basement, sits Temper. I look forward to finally meeting Neil Rankin as again our paths have not yet crossed. Fortunately for me, his General Manager, Jonny Warner is at the helm.

We worked tightly for a couple of years at Hix, and this charming and far too slim and good-looking gentleman was one of the stars there. His star is burning brightly here, he has assembled a crack front of house team who work in tandem with the SAS team manning the kitchen. I owed two friends a dinner for their help in getting my business started and where better than here. A corner at the bar and we let our charming waiter loose, please feed us there are no allergies. Well, job done!

Again, as with all new openings there are a couple of teething issues and these will be worked through. None of them are to do with the people or product however. As with the other two gems mentioned earlier, they have delivered a virtually flawless opening that left me in awe.

Much has been made of the number of restaurants opening and closing in London, however this trio are offering truly individual experiences, all cloaked in the warm blanket of hospitality.

This last point, hospitality, has been a watchword of mine that I have studied over my career to date.

It takes constant attention, listening, learning and trying. What I really admire about the people that run these exciting restaurants, is that they are all avid students of the ultimate thing that gets us to come back, time and again. Hospitality.